VIDEO

Above, the blue sky had transformed quickly to a rain cloud - dramatically painted  in dark gray ink like the brush of Turner.  There was a flock of swallows fling in arrow formation across the fields.  It was the day  after a summer storm.

BAGRINOVTSY

Driving slowly through the row of the trees, one comes upon two additional main roads, which meet at the center of the village to form a three-way intersection.  One road leads to the south and the other to the north.  A bus shelter stands empty at the corner.  A Christian cemetery is located across the road from the bus shelter road and a long lasting white fence surrounding a memorial park lies at the left corner of the intersection. Vlad, behind the wheel of the car, exits the car to investigate the village.  The targets of query were the location of the Jewish cemetery and the site of the mass executions.  No one knew the existence of either.

The three travelers decided to pay a visit at the grocery store they found near by to replenish their stock of lunchmeats, bread, cheeses and bottles of yogurt drinks and juices. They continued on their journey by cruising westward on the main road.  The road was quiet even though it was early afternoon.  A few pedestrians, mostly middle-aged women, passed the conspicuous Honda; they gave no notice to the strangers inside.

After driving for about five minutes or so, they arrived at the western exit of the village where a wooden bridge crossed over a narrow river. There was, however, another village on the other side of the bridge – a perfect place for a U-turn. Vlad found the office of the state administration on the way back to the three-ways intersection; it is located in the center of the village.  Most of the pedestrians seen passing earlier re-appeared at this the office.  They are most likely picking up their monthly stipend or pensions.

Vlad went inside facilities to secure interviews with the officials while Heidi and Norimi waited in the car and watched the passers-by.  Vlad told the two to come inside to visit with one of the officials.  Unfortunately,  the state official could offer only limited information about the village.  He introduced himself as a director for the village and yet appeared to be a reluctant informant for the strange tourists.  Norimi was told of the two thousand people who currently inhabited the village. The official was unable to tell the group anything about the village’s ethnic composite or the ages, occupations or gender of the residents. There was, however, a wall-size detailed map of the village.  The three visitors were allowed to take some photographs of the map.  Among the facilities within the state office were the registrar, pension office and the sheriffs’ department. 

Heidi, Norimi and Vlad continued their tour heading northward.  Driving the car as slowly as possible, Norimi took many photographs and video shots.  His subjects included a horse-drawn wagon filled with hay with a little boy at the reins; military trucks and construction vehicles, which passed through the village.  It was apparent that the village stood between roads that led to major towns and cities. 

Bagrinovtsy is an oasis, a little quiet village in the vast Podolia plain.  It took only ten minutes for the three visitors from the Pervin tree to arrive at the north exit of the village.  There they saw a never-ending view of meadows spread to the horizon. The road lined with tall birch trees continued ahead to Litinka, the next village via the state highway M12.  The three enjoyed a picnic lunch, as they over looked the vast rich land, attractive to so many foreign invaders. Heidi and Norimi agreed with the invaders’ obsessions and cravings for its possession.  The breeze carried a fragrance of honey, the sweet breath of the meadow.  They felt that in that moment they had touched a small fragment of heaven.  The wooden fences bordering the sugar beets field were made of natural tree branches woven uniquely.

Norimi could not help sensing a mysterious veil shielding the village from its past.  The villagers smiled and greeted the strangers in the car.  And yet they kept their distance from any unnecessary acquaintance with the outsiders.  One farmer came by to offer posing for a photograph with his wife.  Norimi agreed.  But his wife who shied away from the strangers rejected the farmer’s offer.  Other than a few old buildings, most of the houses appeared relatively new according to Vlad, possibly built after the revolution.  The few ancient mud houses stood devastated behind brushes and old big oak trees. Norimi regretted only that he could not talk to the old oak trees.  He did enjoy the deep blue clematis vines blossoming in the farmers’ gardens. 

Heidi and Vlad enjoyed spending some time at a public well for an ice-cold drink of water.  The wells were well kept in the village.  Each well was decorated uniquely. 

There were 3 visits to Bagrinovtsy. And each time they encountered a large herd of cows cruising through the village.  On the last of the 3 visits, the travelers gave a sheriff a ride to Litin who usually commuted, daily, to Bagrinovtsy from Litin by foot.